Probably
the most exhilarating
water sport in the world
Surf is generated out in the oceans by stronger winds in stormy
conditions creating swell. This arrives eventually at our shores and when it finds a
shallow gradient, sandy beach, the groundswell is pushed up into a vortex we know as the
waves. The shape of these waves depend on the sand banks, reefs & points the
groundswell encounters as it meets our shores. The size of the waves depend on how
disturbed the ocean is. Quite simply, the bigger the storm , the bigger the swell &
the bigger the waves. Ideally the storm, more commonly associated with deep low pressure,
should be well out in the ocean with a calmer weather system prevailing over the surf
location giving little or no wind, creating perfect 'glassy' conditions. Strong onshore
winds, for instance, will give a locally rough sea & 'messy' surf.
The art of surfing is to use skills in wave judgement, timing & positioning to catch
the wave just as it 'crests', taking off by propelling the board just ahead of the vortex
and gymnastically springing to your feet as the wave reaches the optimum gradient. The
gradient gives you the speed & the surfing manouveres are designed to keep you in the
'power pocket' which is just ahead of the breaking section. Manouveres such as 'cut backs,
off the lips, re-entries & floaters' etc, requiring exceptional balance, are
necessary to keep position on the wave. Steering is achieved by applying weight to the
'rail' in the direction you wish to go. Moving forward will increase your speed. Whether
you go left or right depends on your position relative to the peak. The wave will break at
its highest point and you surf away from the breaking section. Left foot forward is
'Natural' and right foot forward is 'Goofy'.
It is not an easy sport to master and requires a lot of physical effort but when you get
it right there's no feeling on earth like it!
Lester Cruse, Adventure Sports
Cornwall is the surfing capital of the UK and we use some of the most famous and beautiful
surfing beaches as our teaching locations. If you want to get started in the sport an
ideal time to learn is on our holiday where we give you an opportunity to master the
basics, Being taught properly keeps you safe & saves you a lot of time learning the
"hard way"
Contact us below for more information. |




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